Trouble Shooting Spray Guns

Trouble shooting spray guns tutorial covers the many different types of spray guns that are used for a variety of purposes, many times the problems that they have are similar in many ways. I have compiled this troubleshooter guide from spray gun manufacturers, my experience, qualified Spraygun repairmen, and many other resources.

by Gary Kinsey

R&E Paint Supply Sales Rep.All Paint guns are not created equal. There are many different types of Spray guns that are used for a variety of purposes. However, many times the problems that they have are similar in many ways.Spray gun Troubleshooter Guide 

Problem:Very little or no material coming out nozzle&lt

Cause:
Out of Paint
Material too Thick.
Nozzle plugged.
Vacuum Locked
Gun excessively dirty

Remedy:
Refill Cup
Check with Paint Mfgr. for mixing recommendations
Remove nozzle from gun and blow air from the front of nozzle with a blowgun.
Make sure vent holes are not clogged.
Use plenty of the appropriate gun wash and clean thoroughly.

Problem:
Paint leaks from front of gun even after I release the trigger.

Cause:
Needle or Nozzle worn out.
Needle Sticking.
Improper Needle size for the nozzle in gun.
Loose nozzle.
Loose needle packing.
Needle not seating properly.

Remedy:
Inspect and replace as necessary
Lubricate needle packing with appropriate gun lube. Loosen packing nut slightly.
Replace with correct size needle.
Tighten with appropriate nozzle wrench.
Tighten packing nut. (Don’t over tighten)
May be debris in nozzle to prevent proper seat. Disassemble and clean carefully. (toothpicks work well)

Problem:
Paint leaking from packing nut


Cause:
Loose needle packing.
Remedy:
Tighten packing nut. (Don’t over-tighten)Problem:Poor spray patternCause:Air passages in air cap are clogged.
Nozzle is partially clogged.
Damaged nozzle or needle.
Pattern control out of adjustment.
Paint too thick or thin.

Remedy:Remove air cap and soak in appropriate gun wash and clean thoroughly.
Remove nozzle from gun and blow air from the front of nozzle with a blowgun.
Replace damaged part.
Adjust pattern control knob.
Refer to paint Mfgr. for mixing recommendations.

Problem:
Pattern off center; heavy to one side.Cause:

Air passages in air cap clogged.
Gun not perpendicular to surface.
Damaged air cap.

Remedy:
Remove air cap and soak in appropriate gun wash and clean thoroughly
Position gun perpendicular to surface being sprayed.
Replace air cap.


Problem: 
Excessive over sprayCause: Gun positioned too far from object being sprayed. Air pressure too high.

Remedy:
Move in closer to object. 8-10 inches for a gravity feed gun and 10-12 inches for siphon feed gun are the recommendations of most Gun Mfgrs.
Adjust pressure according to Gun Mfgr. specs.

Problem:Good Spray Pattern but gun is pulsating the spray.Cause:Gun is sucking air around the cup gasket. (siphon feed)
Fluid nozzle loose.
Fluid nozzle not sealing correctly.

Remedy:Replace cup gasket.
Tighten with appropriate nozzle wrench.
Remove nozzle and using Teflon tape wrap the threads that tighten into the gun body and replace and tighten with appropriate wrench.

Problem: Fan pattern won’t widen and fan control doesn’t seem to work.Cause:Internally dirty gun.
Damage to the air cap. (caused by dropping the gun)
Damaged fluid nozzle. (Caused by using incorrect wrench)Remedy:Disassemble gun completely and soak all metal parts in appropriate gun wash.
Replace air cap.
Replace fluid nozzle.

Spray guns problems, solutions is brought to you compliments of
R & E Paint Supply
Author Bio:Gary Kinsey has been a salesman for R&E Paint Supply for the last 12 years.
He has a very proficient knowledge of the PBE industry and is a well trained
customer service representative.

The Elusive Ghost Flames

The elusive ghost flames tutorial will show you how to paint old school ghost flames from flame lay out with fine line tape to painting the ghost flames.

I today’s fast and the furious world of custom painting much of the what was hip in the 50’s 60’s and 70’s has been lost or is a dying art form. With many of the new custom painters today, most of them focus on the new types of designs and bright colors. This is great for the younger generation, but many people still desire the old school look with a little twist. In this article we will be looking at some old school with some new technology. Armed with this information we will hunt for the elusive ghost flames. I am not sure when or were ghost flames first showed up or who was the original creator of this great feat. I do know that when done right it will stop most people in their tracks to take a second look. by Dan Hagen, reprinted courtesy Airbrush Technique Magazine 

Materials: 180 grit sand paper, Wet or dry paper ranging from 600-3000, 3M blue fine line3M green 3/4House of Kolor Products233+ BC-25 black, DP-39 Lavender Pearl, UC-35 Kosmic Kolor Klear, RU-311 reducer, KP-21 Kwikure epoxy primer, KS KO2 sealer

 

clean the tank
clean the tank

1. I start by cleaning all the parts that need to be painted with soap and water and towel drying.

tank
sanding tank
removing logo
removing logo
logo
logo removed
ready for paint
ready for paint

2. Before we can move to wet sanding the whole tank with 600 grit we need to remove the vinyl sticker under the clear. I begin doing this by taking 600 grit sand paper and begin sanding the clear until I can gauge the depth of the clear. I need to feather out this area so that the flames that I will be adding later will not have a big dip from the sticker removal. We will lay some primer in area so that later we can blend our color. I have sand the whole area and removed the sticker. Taking a clean rage with a little reducer and begin removing the adhesive from the tank. As you can see from the picture the adhesive has lifted enough for me to get it started. By taking my finger I begin rolling the adhesive into itself. I would stay away from using an X-acto knife. The adhesive will come off pretty easy. With the adhesive removed I take my 180 grit sand paper and begin feathering the area so that there will not be any ridges.

 

blow gu
blowing out dirt
blowig
blowing out dirt from tight areas

3. I have wet sanded the entire tank and now begin to blow all the little hiding spots for dust to be sitting.

 

black
painting black

4. Now I take and lay down some black KS KO-seal 2 and let it dry I then lay down some KP-21 primer and let it dry overnight. After the tank has dried overnight I wet sand to blend everything together. I then take and mix up some KS-KO-2 black primer sealer and shot the tank and wait about an hour and a half. I take and mix up some BC-25 black and shot the tank then wait about 30 minute for it to dry.

 

tape
fine line tape

5. With the tank dry I start my flame layout. I take my 3M blue fine line tape and begin by laying out my first flame. I use a 10 to 12 inch lead and allow the tape site just over the tank about a 1/2 in or so. Most people hold their tape higher, but this is what works for me. You may want to adjust the height to where you feel comfortable.

 

flame
flame layout
flame
flame layout
flame layout
flame layout
flames
laying out flames 2
flames
laying out flames

5. When going into a turn I shorten my lead up to about 6 to 7 inches this gives me a little more control. I then put just enough tension on the right side of the tape to pull the turn to the left and opposite for turning right. With the right side of the tank done I begin with the left side in the same manner. With this design the owner did not want symmetrical flame. He wanted a random flame layout.

 

ghost flames done
ghost flames done

6. With the layout completed I will add some DP-39 (lavender pearl) to the BC-25 (black). I add about 4 X-acto knife blades full of pearl to 8 ounces of paint then add 6 ounces RU-311 to the mix. I would say a ratio of 8:4:6. This gives me a thin mixture that I can use to build up the flames, but also allows me to keep the edges of the flames low.

With the flames sprayed and everything untapped I can lay on 4 coats of Kosmic Klear UC-35. I like the UC-35 because it’s high build and great shine. I hope this will help you in your search for the elusive ghost flames.

Scuff And Prep Before Painting

Scuff and prep before painting tutorial we’ll cover prep required on painted, clear coated metal, fiberglass surfaces before you can add your art work. Written by Don Johnson, airbrushgallery.com brought to you by Airbrush Technique Magazine

This is in general geared toward those rending art on motorcycles, helmets, cars, trucks and the like when the surface has already been base coated and cleared.

This takes into account any wax or other substances have already been cleaned from the surface and you are ready to scuff the surface for paint adhesion purposes. The key word here is SCUFF not scratch so a certain degree of care should be taken when prepping a surface for adding your artwork, airbrushing.

The first rule when looking to prepare a surface for custom painting is READ THE TECH SHEET, the second rule is READ THE TECH SHEET for the paint product you will be using. You can save yourself a lot of heart ache by following those simple rules before you jump into any project. In very general terms the procedure as out lined below will work but please check, read the tech sheets that go along with the paint products you will be using.

It this tutorial we’ll be going over using Scotch Brite pads for the purpose of scuffing the surface. As I stated above what we want to accomplish here is to scuff the surface (clear coat) we DO NOT want to scratch the surface there is a huge difference. . To just take after the surface with a Scotch Brite pad you might get away a couple times but sooner or later it will bit you and you’ll end up with a surface covered with scratches, not good. To help avoid that end result you will find the following very helpful.

 

Comet and scuff pad

Pictured above (house Comet cleaner) is what I have been using for over ten years now with my Scotch Brite pads and good old H2O, I’ve had zero ill effects. The Comet acts much the same as the Scuff It product pictured below.

 

3M Scuff IT

For those of you with deeper pockets than mine there is a 3M product made just for use with Scotch Brite pads, “Scuff It”. “3M™ Scuff-It™ is an outstanding new prep gel that is designed to clean, degrease and abrade automotive surfaces prior to painting.Used in conjunction with Scotch-Brite™ pads, the Scuff-It™ gel lubricates the pad to ensure a consistent scratch pattern that will greatly improve the adhesion of the paint. Rinses cleanly with water. Convenient “wedge” tube fits into technician’s pocket for easy use.”

 

Scuff surface

Following along with the Comet method you need to keep your surface wet all the time apply a bit a Comet to the area you intend to scuff and gently have at it with the Scotch Brite pad.

 

scuff metal surface

The key with this method is to keep the surface wet all the time and rinse the Scotch Brite pad out often. You want to avoid the pad getting a build up of gunk as that will produce scratches.

 

completely scuffed, prep surface

Pictured above is our scuffed motorcycle tank all ready for us to add our artwork to. No big scratches a nicely scuffed surface to which the paint should have no problem adhering to. You can see on the masking covering the gas filler hole how shiny that area still looks against our nicely scuffed surface.

Pretty simple basic stuff but if done in correctly the greatest art work, graphic’s will not cover the mess underneath them. Your paint is only as good as what you apply it over get off to a great start and scuff the surface correctly.

Seal Team Half Helmet Step by Step

Seal Team Half Helmet Step by Step is a helmet design for a Seal Team whose commander was retiring and this was to be his retirement gift. Nothing to fancy here all accomplished with two inch 3M masking tape and a bit of transfer paper. I used House of Kolor base colors reduced about 60% with slow reducer. For airbrushes I used Iwata Micron C and HP-CS, Richpen 213 C.

seal team design

If you’ve read my other helmet articles you already know how I go about prepping the helmet for the painting process so we’ll skip that here. This of course is just a half helmet which I masked the bottom trim off with masking tape. There is many ways you could approach painting this design I’ve chosen to base just the area in the front of the helmet where the team shield will go and than clear over the enter helmet. My reasoning is it’s a black helmet to get the colors to be vibrant they will have to be applied over a white base. If I had left the design area black masked the helmet off, laid the design out, cut it out one piece at time for reference I would have had to apply white than the color resulting in some very big paint edges along the masking having to adding two colors. To reduce these paint lines or build up of paint I prefer to base the enter design area white, clear it, mask it and lay my design out and than only apply the one finish design color. The goal is always to keep the amount of paint you apply to a minimum thus reducing the amount of clear needed to bury the design so it can not be felt when the job is complete, the helmet will end up with a smooth surface just as it started out as. Pictured here is the helmet masked of with a print out of the team badge to size and scale positioned on the front of the helmet. Using Photoshop or any graphics program you can easily bring your design to the correct size to fit the helmet.

 

design drawn on helmet
painting seal team emblem design

I trace around the outside of the design making sure it was centered on the helmet first. After removing the print off I chose to use fine line tape to outline my design as it very easy to lay down nice lines like the outside of this design require. From there it’s just a matter of drawing the design on the masking which I generally do with pencil getting everything in proportion and my final draft in pen. There you have about the most time consuming part of the whole job; getting it laid out correctly. Could I have cut it on a plotter? Sure but if you’ve ever tried getting vinyl to lay flay on the curved surface you know it’s pretty much a futile effort.

 

start airbrushing

Now it’s just a matter of carefully cutting out the entire design one section at a time. As you can see that white base starts to pay off right now as we begin the painting process. After removing one tiny section of the masking I use over reduced black base coat to outline my design just enough to act as a reference so once all the masking has been removed it just a matter of some free hand airbrushing to tighten the design up.

 

airbrushing white

Pictured above the enter eagle, etc. has been roughed in with just the base black and we are ready to begin refining the design. In the end I have to go back in and straighten the forks of the fork which goes to prove it’s best to do it correctly the first time.

 

yellow and black

Here it’s just a matter of working the yellow than black, yellow, black until you’re happy with the design.

 

the red 7

Now we’ll tackle the red 7 which with the micron is very easy and requires no masking of the yellow eagle I just painted. Cut the 7 out and apply the red all this is made so much easier because we already have a white base to work on.

 

braid around the outside
braid around the outside

To render the braid around the outside of the design you can see I have measured the sections off on the masking and will use over reduced black base to outline the braids cutting one tiny section out at a time. Looks time consuming but if you go thru and cut them all out at once it actually goes pretty quickly.

 

braids in with some yellow

Fill the braids in with some yellow; again that micron comes in very handy for tight stuff like this. Pull the rest of the masking off the letters and stars and it’s not looking to badly so far. And as you can see there are our stars and lettering already in white just as they are required too be from the reference we had to work off from.

 

remove masking

Remove the rest of the masking on the helmet; let it see the light of day so we can see how it looks and we are ready to add our background.

 

seal logo done
adding trxture

I want to close the design in with black but not all the way right up to the Team Badge so we’ll use the old and quick dry wall repair tape for a nice effect around the design. I think running the black right up to the helmet would take away from the design so we’ll add this very easy background to blend it into.

 

completed front design

And there you have our pretty much completed front design except for fixing that ugly fork; doing it right the first time saves you time in the end. As you can see though the little added work around the outside made the enter design even more interesting, simple sheet rock tape, pool screen, window screen all work nicely.

 

frog

Above you see he reference that was sent me for the side designs, frog skeleton which will be a first for me; never painted one of these, lots of skeleton’s but never a frog skeleton.

 

transfer design
frog design
frog
frog painted
frog painted

Transfer our frog onto a piece of transfer paper, position correctly on the helmet on both sides and we’re ready to start on the side designs. As I did with the front design I go thru the entire frog and cut everything out very carefully. Once again all I’m shooting for here are reference lines with this part of the painting process and for this I use over reduced base white.

Once I have gone thru both sides and placed my reference lines with the base white. I will pull all the masking off and free hand both designs alternating between base black and white to refine the frog skeletons. With this completed we are ready for a couple coats of two part clear and it’s done. Because we do not have a big build up of paint where we painted the designs clear coating this helmet will be a breeze.

 

helmet finished
helmet finished
helmet finished

Motorcycle Gas Tank Trick

Motorcycle gas tank trick tutorial covers a little trick for masking off the gas filler hole on a motorcycle tank when painting the tank. Written by Don Johnson brought to you by Airbrush Technique Magazine.

Kustom painting for a living how much better can life get? Being able to work our own hours, playing in paint all day, creating until your hearts content; cool deal.

But a last before we get to play, be creative there’s the reality of prep work and the dreaded countless hours of masking, taping areas, objects off so no paint creeps in those areas. It’s boring even writing about it much less spending countless hours actually doing it.

Here’s a little trick I picked up along the way to make the task go a little quicker, make life a little simpler less stressful if you will. One of the worst areas on motorcycle gas tanks to mask off are those holes where the gauges are inserted and the gas filler hole. These areas should stay bear metal as we don’t need the primer, paint in these areas acting like a wick, sucking the gas up under our nice new kustom paint job.

The three pictures below show you a very simple way to mask these areas off and the best part is the masking material used is as close as your mom’s or wife’s baking supply stash. Yes as you can see it’s the cup cake foil deals your mom or wife (husband maybe I guess) use to bake those great cup cakes in.

Simply double up a piece of masking take so both sides are sticky and put it on the bottom of the cup cake foil, insert it in the gauge, filler hole and it’s a done deal. Those areas are now masked off good enough to not allow paint to get where you don’t want it. Pretty silly but very effective and cheap, hope you find this helpful next time you are masking off a motorcycle tank.

 

motorcycle gas tank
motorcycle gas tank
motorcycle gas tank

I hope you found the above helpful and you can apply it to your next custom painting project. Please book mark this site and come back often as I will add more info as time allows. If you like this web site please check out our magazine as its your support for that which make this site possible.

Monster Truck Mural

Monster truck mural tutorial covers  how I airbrushed the murals on the monster truck Bad News Travels Fast for the owners and Mattel Toys. Although I the article was originally published on 2005 the information, techniques used are still very relevant to today’s airbrushing and custom painting. This project was a lot of work but it was a real blast to see the truck out crushing cars at the monster truck shows. This article appeared in issue #4 of Airbrush Technique Magazine in 2005 and is in PDF format for easy reading and downloading if you care to save it.

monster truck mural
monster truck

What I used to paint the murals: House of Kolor basecoats, Iwata airbrushes, transfer tape, 3M masking tape, fine line tape.

CLICK HERE to read the article

airbrush magazine issue 4

Airbrush Technique magazine Issue #4 CLICK HERE for more info

Monster Truck Mural Video

Airbrushing murals on the Monster Truck Bad News Travels Fast truck. I really didn’t set out to make a video of this as I was really pushed for time to get this done. I put some clips I shot during the painting process and this video is the result.

 

Materials used House of Kolor, Iwata HP-CS, transfer tape, fine line tape, masking tape.

Pictured below the monster Truck Bad News Travels Fast in action crushing some cars.

 Monster Truck Mural Video
monster truck

Masking Helmet Trim

Masking helmet trim is always a pain to accomplish I’ve experimented with dozens of ways of dealing with helmet trim this is the way I’ve found works best. For high dollar helmet designs I more times than not remove the trim replacing it with new trim but for the average helmet paint job this works great. I have to thank Pat (aka airbrushguy) for turning me onto using the fine line tape technique.

helmet trim 1

Using 1/8 inch fine line tape ( I prefer the purple plastic tape for this) run it around the ever top of the rubber bottom trim. Using your finger nail roll the fine line tape under the trim. When running your fine line tape you want it even or just over lapping onto the helmet a very, very small amount. Make sure you get ALL the fine line tape rolled under, leaving any over lapping on the helmet will cause problems at the finish of the project so be sure to double check this.

 

masking visor area

Next you want to close up the visor space, seal it off when a good grade masking tape. I use a plastic spreader to work the tape in against the rubber trim than cut off the excess that over laps onto the helmet.

 

 

protecting inside of helmet

Next step is to protect the inside of the helmet, for this I use a plastic bag like you get at grocery store.

 

protecting the inside
protecting inside helmet

sing the plastic spreader again I work the plastic bag down between the helmet padding and helmet providing a good seal so no paint gets inside the helmet.

 

helmet trim

Now I run a single row of tape over lapping the rubber trim and plastic bag. Keep it off the fine line tape thought…

 

masking helmet trim

Lastly one more row of masking tape this time over lapping the fine line tape. I do this so when I need to use two coats of clear I can remove the fine line tape between clear coats with out removing the bag protecting the inside of the helmet. After you clear the helmet you’ll want to pull that last row of masking tape and the fine line tape BEFORE the clear dries. This allows the clear to flow a bit and provides a nice seal between the helmet and rubber trim. When I have to clear coat, wet sand to knock down the edges on graphics before I apply the last coat of clear I apply the fine line tape/masking tape again.

Using this technique you should end up with a nice clean looking junction between the rubber trim and helmet. I hope you found this helpful….

Lion Helmet Airbrush Tutorial

Lion Helmet Airbrush Tutorial covers rendering a lion on the back of a motorcycle helmet using techniques borrowed from other forms of airbrushing, illustration mostly. It is also a good study on why you should never give up on a design and see it thru to completion. Written by Don Johnson, airbrusgallery.com

Sponsored by Airbrush Technique Magazine the best airbrush magazine on the planet.

The lion is not meant to be fine art by any means its helmet art but many of the techniques used in airbrushing illustration, canvas can be used just the same. Mainly the techniques of using an easer and hobby knife to remove paint from an area to help build highlights  character in your design are barrowed from those airbrushing those surfaces. You accomplish this on a hard surface much the same as you would on illustration board or canvas; you apply your paint in very thin coats and in many layers. Between layers use an easer or hobby knife blade tip to remove some of the color revealing the light back ground color.

Using this technique doesn’t make you less of an artist, doesn’t reflect your lack of skill with an airbrush it’s just another tool you have at your disposal to help you render your art. Some of the best illustrators in the airbrushing field use this same technique, Mark Frederson for one.

One thing I have learned over the year’s custom painting is to see a design thru to the end; there may come a point where you believe all is lost, the design just isn’t working. At times like this don’t throw the towel in see the design thru to the end; more times than not you will be surprised at how well things turn out in the end.

Airbrush Supplies Required:

double action airbrush, House of Kolor paint and clear coats, hobby knife

 

motorcycle helmet

The helmet the customer sent me was black so in the back where the lion will go I based it white and shot a quick coat of clear over it feathering it out on the rest of the helmet. Very similar to spotting a panel in on a car that’s been damaged in a small area where you just blend the clear in. After allowing the clear to dry, flash over night I scuff the area preparing to add the lion.

For rending the fur I will be using a scraping technique to remove paint so the clear coat over the white is required to hold up to this technique. A simple mid coat or SG100 will not work so I op for two part clear.

 

lion head stencil

Using Photoshop I resize my reference image to fit the size I need for the helmet. With a hobby knife I cut out the main parts of the lion like the eyes, nose and mouth. The foundation of your painting has to begin with having the correct prospective. The nose, mouth and eyes need to be in the correct position to help make viewers believe it’s a lion. Using this technique insures that at least to start the painting I have a good foundation to work from.

 

lion head out line

After positioning the reference picture on the helmet I airbrush a little black thru the opening I have cut leaving registration marks on the helmet. Now I know where the eyes should be in relationship to the nose, mouth, ears.

 

spraying light brown

And now the fun begins as the painting process starts, I begin by using a light brown rendering, airbrushing in the first layer of fur and base color. Keep your reference photo right there so you can refer to it often to ensure you are painting what you see in the photo not what you think you remember seeing.

 

continuing to paint fur

I tend to jump around a lot while painting working on the fur than the mouth or the nose pulling the entire painting along as one. At this point I sort of question should I continue on here it’s not looking very good, one of those moments I spoke of in the opening of this article. I think you’ll see I made the right choice to see it thru to the end. Even if it had not turned out as I imagined it would it’s all a learning process, experience that you can put to use in the next project.

 

Layer after layer build your fur up

Here you can see the sides of the snout just above the nose are way to well defined and must be fixed. Layer after layer build your fur up, build your colors in the same manner. Don’t just work on one local area of fur rather move all over the design pulling it together all at once.

 

shadow areas

In areas that are darker color I spray a very over reduced black into the area and than use my hobby knife to bring the fur back out. With House of Kolor the base black is way to the brown side of black, it’s not a true black. So when House of Kolor base black is over reduced for airbrushing you end up with a dark brown rather than a true black, the same dark brown I’m looking for in parts of this lion. If you airbrush or custom paint long enough you will come to realize there are many, many different blacks just like the other colors.

 

using hobby knife

Here is the knife pictured and a better view of the paint removal I’ve done with the knife. I have also started to work on the eyes by adding white, and our dark brown (HOK black) around the eyes, nose and lips. Notice I still have not taken care of the snout which looking at it now still drives me crazy.

I’ve also started to clean up around the lion bring that area back to black as the original factory color is.

 

airbrushing fur

At this point I have at least six layers on the entire design using the same technique of adding color, scraping to being the fur back out. Remember the warm and cool colors I spoke of from past articles? Well here is your chance to put those colors to work, transparent purple and transparent yellow. In areas you want to recede in your painting apply just a touch of transparent purple; just a touch is all it takes. On the snout, nose area use your transparent yellow to bring those areas forward in the painting.

 

add some yellow in the eyes

Almost there add some yellow in the eyes followed by brown, drop shadow the brow and add a small gleam in the eyes. I’ve found by taking pictures of my work and than viewing them on the computer it helps me see where I need to make changes to the design. In this picture it tells me I still need to work on the snout and blend it in better from the top of the nose to the bottom of the eyes.

 

before clear coat

These are the last pictures I shot before clear coating the helmet. I learned a lot during this project, having to recall the steps taken to write this article has also helped me recognize what I should have done differently.

 

helmet finished

How To Airbrush Bike Mural

“How To Airbrush Bike Mural” tutorial Brad walks you thru in detail airbrushing a Fallen Solder mural onto a bike. Brad use’s Auto air and double action airbrushes to paint the mural and the techniques you will learn can be applied to many different surfaces not just bikes. Written by Brad De La Torre this tutorial was published in issue 20 Airbrush Technique Magazine.

The step by step is in PDF format so you can download it if you like for personal use. Please do not repost this PDF on the Internet.

bike mural

CLICK HERE to read the article

 

airbrush magazine issue 20

For more info on Airbrush Technique Magazine Issue 20 CLICK HERE